On an eating pilgrimage to Austin, a Californian meets Aaron Franklin and the Posse, and tastes 'the love' of Texas BBQ

Steven Hecht visits with La Barbecue pitmaster Dylan Taylor, 21, who was trained by the legendary John Lewis. (Photo ©Tom Fox)

Posse Note: During our barbecue tour of Central Texas last weekend, we met Steven Hecht, born in Texas who now lives in California. He said that he's a regular reader of this blog and he used it to plan his Texas BBQ tour. Of course, after learning that, we asked him to write about his experience. Here is his story:

I just returned from my first BBQ Pilgrimage to Austin, Texas and it was a life-changing experience.

My name is Steven Hecht and I was born in Dallas.  Though my family moved to California when I was 13, the love for barbecue has forever coursed through my Texan blood.  I had returned many times to Dallas to visit family and eaten “chain prepared” BBQ, but what my BBQ-lovin’ friend Steve Barnes and I found on our road trip was a nirvana of indescribable tastes, smokey scented air that made our mouths water, and new friendships with fellow BBQ lovers from all over the USA.

Steve Barnes at Snow's BBQ. (Photo ©Steven Hecht)

Steve had been pestering me for years to take a sojourn to Texas barbecue country.  We had sampled any and all southern California barbecue joints through the years. Of course, my backyard ‘cues were the best of all!  When I learned my in-laws were coming cross country for a week-long visit, the opportunity suddenly revealed itself.

We arrived on a Thursday late afternoon and from the airport car rental spot we called ahead to Louie Mueller Barbecue in Taylor to get the status on what barbecue was still available.  Disappointed but not unexpectedly we learned that the prized beef ribs were long gone and what was left was rapidly dwindling.  Undeterred, we made a beeline over to La Barbecue.  With our hunger rapidly increasing we were dismayed to find only pulled pork and turkey remaining as the sun was beginning to set.

We had organized our dining destinations and timing using the Texas BBQ Posse's blog.  I had spent many hours reading Gary Jacobson’s stories reveling about the great times he, Chris Wilkins and the whole Posse had on their Texas barbecue road trips and utilized their advice on timing, days, wait lines, etc.

With no backup to our backup plan we figured that Salt Lick would still have plenty of food.  We made the pleasant drive east of Austin on the country roads as the sun set and our stomachs rumbled.  We were quickly seated and ordered the beef rib, pork ribs, sausage, and brisket.  We were so hungry and this being our first taste of “real” Texas BBQ we were satisfied with tasty beef rib, the rural setting, and the blazing rotund BBQ pit.  Even though the brisket was chewy we were satisfied to having crossed off a fallen BBQ star and were ready for sleep, as an early Friday morning line at Franklin Barbecue awaited us.

Aaron Franklin with Steven Hecht.
(Photo ©Steven Hecht)

The hotel alarm sounded at 6:30 a.m. and we were pulling into the Franklin parking lot at 7:20 a.m. There were nine hardy souls ahead of us and we huddled in against the just above-freezing cold and the biting wind.  After Steve made a quick walk to a place behind the parking lot for some coffee and hot chocolate we started to settle in and get acquainted with the barbecue lovers ahead of and behind us.

Around 9 o’clock a Franklin employee brought out some of their folding chairs and a much appreciated heat lamp.  The restaurant doors were unlocked, the bathroom was available, and the feeling was slowly returning to my hands as a small, ever changing group warmed themselves surrounding the heat lamp.  Spirits were picking up and the smoke wafting through the air was ratcheting up our anticipation.

Steve rejoined me at the heat lamp and showed off his selfie with Aaron Franklin!  The man, the myth, the legend!  The proprietor and leader of the Austin, Texas barbecue renaissance was leaning on the counter talking to his meat cutter as they were preparing the day’s preorders.  I got my own selfie with Aaron, who was smiling, gracious and as nice as could be.

We met people from New York, New Jersey, Ohio, Minnesota, Kentucky, North Carolina, and California.  There was even Eddie from Austin who took his birthday off from work to spend four hours in line to eat Franklin barbecue.  He was a great source of knowledge about all the region’s BBQ restaurants and we enjoyed his experienced opinions.  Tip: One easy way to start up a conversation with anyone in Austin is to ask them about their favorite BBQ places.

Working the pits at Snow's BBQ on a cold Saturday morning. (Photo ©Tom Fox)

When Aaron Franklin opened the screen door to let the line move inside we were thrilled.  We ordered brisket, pork ribs and sausage.  As we had three days and four BBQ tastings planned, we figured that a half pound of each would be about right.  But, when the oakwood fired smoke hits your nostrils and you see the shiny sauce reflecting off the ribs and juices pouring out of freshly cut brisket, well, you’ll know what to do!  We ordered a pound of brisket and ribs each and four links of sausage.

Line mate Eddie joined us at our table and we chowed down.  The brisket had a great bark and was so tender and juicy.  So good!  The ribs were fall of the bone and the best I have ever had.  The sausage was real good but not to Steve’s tastes.  As we ate and licked our fingers, line mates who were waiting to order looked on with anticipation.  Franklin was the bomb!

Well, it was about noon and we were stuffed, tired and what do visitors do in Austin after that?  Nap.  LOL.  Then drink.  We were staying at the Westin on E. 6th St. and had a good time that night.  Snow’s Barbecue in Lexington, Texas was awaiting us and we set the alarm for 6:30 a.m.

Saturday morning is the only time you will find Tootsie Tomanetz shoveling hot coals into her barbecue pits at Snow’s.  The Texas BBQ Posse has praised Snow’s.  In one blog post, six Posse members rated their personal top-five picks in the state and Snow’s was at the top on three of the lists.  A must-eat, only an hour east of Austin.

The line at 8am at Snow's BBQ in Lexington. (Photo ©Steven Hecht)

Just about a quarter before 8:00 a.m. we pulled up to Snow’s and were about twentieth in the mist-filled morning line.  As we waited, the wonderful smell of smoked meat filled the air.  About 45 minutes later we were ordering at the counter.  This time we intended to stick to our original plan of half a pound of brisket, ribs and sausage.  No.  Once again our senses were overwhelmed by the sights and smells.  One pound of brisket and ribs each and 5 sausage links (these looked a bit smaller than Franklin’s.)

We couldn't believe how good it was.  We whispered conspiratorially, “This brisket is more tender than Franklin’s.” It literally fell apart in our hands before we could lift it to our mouths.  Dripping with juices.  The ribs were sensational, not quite quite as good as Franklin, maybe, but certainly right up there.  The regular and jalapeño sausage links were good but I didn’t finish mine as I gorged on the brisket and ribs.

Snow’s brisket has less bark than Franklin’s.  I prefer the heavier bark.  After finishing I approached Tootsie and owner Kerry Bexley to thank and compliment them.  I asked Kerry how he cooks his brisket and he told me that it cooks about 8-10 hours and that they wrap it in aluminum foil the last few hours to increase the juiciness. That foil wrap is why the bark is less than at Franklin, he explained. Franklin uses butcher paper.

“Look out, now”, Kerry said as Tootsie carried a shovel full of hot coals to keep her chickens smoking.

As Steve and I took some photos we met a group of five or six guys from Chicago.  Like us, they had pre-printed their own T-shirts for the special pilgrimage.  I didn’t think anyone could be as nutty as we were.  They informed us they were going to another four joints that day, had planned on hitting about 15 in all on their trip and invited us to tag along.  It sounded real fun but our bellies were full again and we started back toward Austin.  But, they had planted a seed in my mind.

As Steve drove and I tilted back the seat in our rental car I mentioned that these Chicago guys were following the guidelines that the Texas BBQ Posse recommends.  Eat small and hit a lot of places. That wasn’t my style. I don’t have that kind of self control.  But I suggested that we head over to La Barbecue and finish this road trip with one more experience for comparison’s sake.  He agreed and I closed my eyes.

Patrons enjoy a sunny afternoon as they dine at La Barbecue in Austin. (Photo ©Tom Fox)

I woke up as we exited Cesar Chavez Boulevard back in Austin a few minutes from La Barbecue. We parked and got in what seemed to be a relatively short line. We were in luck! In front of us was Greg with a cooler full of IPA’s and a 40-year history of local barbecue stories to share. He imparted some new knowledge and reinforced some old talk we had heard about what we were calling the Austin, Texas BBQ family tree.

Lockhart, Texas is regaled for being the origin of Texas barbecue, but Austin is now the showplace, thanks in part to descendants of Louie Mueller. Two of his grandchildren run joints in Austin. John Mueller has John Mueller Meat Co. (Aaron Franklin once worked for John) and LeAnn Mueller owns La Barbecue.  The LA stands for LeAnn.

Our wait was about 90 minutes before we ordered. Greg’s old high school friend and La Barbecue regular Larry joined in with his daughter, son-in-law, and other friends.  Up ahead a group of young women joined in and Steve whispered that he wished La Barbecue observed Franklin’s Manifesto about cautioning people in line not to let in too many “joiners.” But, the IPA’s were flowing, we were still full from Snow’s and they were so nice and friendly we really didn’t mind at all.

As we got close to the ordering window we recognized from Snow’s earlier that morning a character with a blue knit cap tilted on his head and a Berkeley sweatshirt.  Steve talked with him and he told us he was Bruce Tomaso and he was with the The Dallas Morning News.  I instantly perked up and excitedly asked him if he knew Gary Jacobson (co-founder along with Chris Wilkins of this blog).  He answered, “Sure, he is right back in line”.

I was so pumped up to learn that the Texas BBQ Posse was HERE. We had read their blog and everything we were doing was because of their stories and now they were actually at La Barbecue. I went back to introduce myself and thank him profusely for all of their stories and insight.

La Barbecue pitmaster Dylan Taylor with Steven Hecht.
(Photo ©Steven Hecht)

Gary smiled and seemed almost as happy as I was to meet. He brightened even more when Chris told him I had offered to order their food for their small group to save them two hours more of waiting in the growing line.  We were best friends now!!  Meeting Gary, Chris, and the rest of the Posse was the highlight of my trip.  Chris gathered up the order and we jumped back into our spot near the window. Hey, everyone else had joiners.

This time Steve and I had to curtail our portions and just had a few ribs, brisket and sausage.  The brisket was the best tasting of the whole trip.  So juicy and buttery and amazing!  The ribs and sausage were super but we were stuffed.  I was dismayed that we didn’t order the renowned beef rib but at 1.5 pounds we had to say no.

I went into the La Barbecue smoker where 21 year old Dylan Taylor was tending to the brisket.  He was so friendly and so level headed and grounded for a young guy.  Just two years ago he had been delivering pizza.  He told me he cooks the brisket at 250 degrees for 16 hours and wraps them in butcher paper about the last quarter of the cooking time.  I could taste the love and time he puts into his cooking.

We spoke and I recounted our trip: Salt Lick,  Franklin, Snow’s…Miss Tootsie isn’t a spring chicken anymore.  Aaron’s fame, fortune and the pressure it takes to run that kind of operation where people wait four hours in line can’t last forever.

I imparted my vision on Dylan:  La Barbecue was the future of Texas BBQ.  Their brisket was the best tasting, now.  They have a promising future ahead.  Good luck to them!

As our trip was ending, I looked back at all the great memories we had. The outstanding food, the smokey joints, the lines.  But, the best part was the people.  The like-minded folks who all shared a love and passion for great BBQ.  That was the uniting tie that bound us all.  From Aaron to Tootsie and Kerry, to LeAnn and Dylan, to Gary and Chris and the rest of the Posse, to Eddie and Greg and Larry, to Steve and I.  We love barbecue and good barbecue means good times and good friends!!

I will be back to Austin for BBQ Road Trip II.  After all, there is still that beef rib at La Barbecue I must try.

Steve Barnes, left, with Steven Hecht at Snow's BBQ. (Photo ©Steven Hecht)

Killen's in Pearland might just be the best BBQ joint in Texas

Customers wait for the 11am opening of Killen's BBQ in Pearland on Saturday morning. (Photo ©Chris Wilkins/Texas BBQ Posse)

Even before we had finished eating at Killen's Barbecue in Pearland on Saturday, the great debate began.

"When you factor everything in, this is the best barbecue place in Texas," declared Posse co-founder Chris Wilkins.

We ate brisket, pork ribs, pork belly, beef ribs, turkey and sausage. Everything was excellent -- moist, flavorful and nicely cooked.

On a scouting mission in May, Posse member Jim Rossman called the food at Killen's, which opened in a permanent location early this year, "spectacular." Allison Cook, the restaurant critic at the Houston Chronicle recently gave the joint that newspaper's highest rating, four stars. We wouldn't argue.

Wilkins also pointed out that on a warm, humid, rainy Gulf Coast morning, we were sitting comfortably inside an air conditioned restaurant. Trailer joints, charming as they can be, lose some attraction when it's very hot or very cold or raining.

There were six Posse members on our 35-hour, 610-mile barbecue tour to the Houston area. While a couple of us agreed with Wilkins about Killen's, a couple others urged more restraint before making such a declaration.

We continued our debate on the drive back to Dallas. Each of us rated, in no particular order, our five favorite places, joints that we'd drive across the state to visit, or recommend to good friends to do the same.

Three places made everyone's list: Killen's, la Barbecue in Austin and Pecan Lodge in Dallas.

Four other places received mentions, but weren't unanimous: Franklin Barbecue in Austin, Snow's BBQ in Lexington, Louie Mueller Barbecue in Taylor and Miller's Smokehouse in Belton.

Franklin, run by now-celebrity pit master Aaron Franklin, is often mentioned as the best place in the state, but it made only three Posse members' lists. Daniel Goncalves said he would never recommend to anyone that they go there because of the long lines.

Every meat we tasted at Killen's BBQ was perfectly cooked. (Photo ©Chris Wilkins/Texas BBQ Posse) 

Phil Lamb, who included Franklin on his list, noted the barbecue renaissance in Texas.

"It is an important factor that enough people caught up to Franklin that you don't have to put them on your must-go-to list," Lamb said.

And Wilkins, so adamant in his initial support of Killen's, came up with a different No.1 when he altered his criteria a bit.

"If there's one place in the world I would send someone so they would understand Texas barbecue, it would be Snow's on a Saturday morning," he said.

Let the great barbecue debate continue.

Houston Redemption BBQ Tour

Friday 6/27
7:45am: Leave Dallas

10:30am: CorkScrew BBQ, 24930 Budde Rd., Spring, 832-592-1184. Open Tues-Sat 11am-til the meat runs out. Website: http://www.corkscrewbbq.com (Texas Monthly Top 50)

1pm: Virgie's Bar-B-Que, 5535 Gessner Dr., Houston, 713-466-6525. Open Tues 11am-2pm, Wed-Fri 11am-6:30pm, Sat 11am-5:30pm. Website: http://www.virgiesbbq.com (Texas Monthly Top 50)

3pm: Brooks' Place, 18020 FM 529, Cypress, 832-893-1682. Open Wed-Sun 11am-til the meat runs out. Website: Website: http://www.brooksplacebbq.com (Texas Monthly Top 50)

7:10pm: Detroit Tigers @ Houston Astros, Minute Maid Park.

Overnight in Houston, Club Quarters Houston hotel

Saturday 6/28
10:30am: Killen's BBQ, 3613 E. Broadway, Pearland, 281-485-2272. Open Tues-Sun 11am-until they run out of meat. Website: http://www.killensbarbecue.com

1pm: Ray's Real Pit BBQ Shack, 4529 Old Spanish Trail, Houston, 713-748-4227. Open Mon-Sat 11am-8pm. Website: http://www.raysbbqshack.com

3pm: Brisket House, 5775 Woodway, Houston, 281-888-0331. Open Mon-Sat 11am-9pm, Sat 11am-6pm. Website: http://thebriskethouse.com

4:00pm: Head back to Dallas

The Posse enjoys an incredible spread of smoked meat at Killen's BBQ. L-R: Phil Lamb, Tom Fox, Daniel Goncalves, Jim Rossman, Gary Jacobson & Chris Wilkins. (Photo by Bryan Norton)

Hutchins BBQ in McKinney can hang with Austin's best and it's open all day

(L-R) Jim Rossman, Kathy and Steve Hunt, Gary Jacobson, Michael Landauer, Bruce Tomaso and Gary Barber at Hutchins BBQ. (Photo by Tom Fox)

For quality, the barbecue benchmarks are clear for Tim Hutchins, owner of Hutchins BBQ in McKinney.

"We're shooting for those guys in Austin," Hutchins said during the Posse's recent visit to his joint. He said he and his crew regularly travel to the new BBQ Capital of Texas to sample the fare at places like Franklin BBQ, la Barbecue and John Mueller Meat Co. They also visit Pecan Lodge in Dallas.

But Hutchins is even more ambitious. Many of the top joints in the state are open only a few hours a day. They close when they run out of meat.

"We want to serve great barbecue10 hours a day instead of just 2," Hutchins said. His place, which made Texas Monthly's Top 50 list last year, opens at 11 a.m. and closes at 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 9:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Hutchins BBQ won The Dallas Morning News' recent barbecue poll of readers. The Posse went there with Steve and Kathy Hunt, who live in McKinney and are regulars at the place. Steve won a meal with the Posse. He was randomly selected from among those who Tweeted a link to the poll.

Kathy ordered brisket and chicken. The rest of us -- we totaled 8 -- ordered the all-you-can-eat $16.59 special, which may just be the best barbecue value anywhere.

Everything -- brisket, pork ribs, turkey, chicken, pulled pork, sausage -- was good. The ribs were tremendous.

"These ribs are meat candy," Posse member Tom Fox said.

"This is just too pretty to eat," Posse member Jim Rossman said.

"The rub they apply is ridiculously good," Steve Hunt said.

Rossman and Hunt said they were the best ribs they had eaten in a long time.

Just before cutting and serving, general manager Dustin Blackwell applied a glaze to the ribs. When he stopped by the table, we asked Blackwell the ingredients.

"A real simple sweet glaze," he said, without elaborating.

Trade secret?

Blackwell nodded, smiling.

When Hutchins stopped by our table, he said that his goal is constant improvement. That's why he and and his crew regularly make pilgrimages to other top joints.

"We're trying to be cool," Hutchins said. "We're trying to get into the fraternity."

Hunt, who works for Dell, told Hutchins that he was moving soon to Austin.

"If you ever get ready to open there, I think you can give them a run for their money," he said.

Hutchins laughed.

"I think we've got a little more training to do," he said.

The Posse agrees with Hunt. Hutchins can hang with Austin's best right now. Make room in the BBQ Fraternity.

A Thanksgiving turkey tribute to Walt and all the grill masters and pitmasters who pass along the tradition

Libby & Gunnar Jacobson at the cabin on Grindstone Island in 1991.

With the Posse, I've eaten turkey at some of the best barbecue joints in Texas, including Franklin Barbecue in Austin and Stanley's in Tyler. Their turkey breast is first rate, no question, just like their other smoked meats.

But the most memorable turkey I've ever eaten still remains Walt Scheela's, cooked at his cabin on Grindstone Island.

The ambiance is important. One of 1,600 islands in Rainey Lake, Grindstone is located about 10 miles East of International Falls, Mn. Look one direction across the water and you see Canada. Look another and you see Voyageurs National Park.

One winter long ago, we skied across the frozen lake and spent a cold night (20 below or so) in the cabin, waking every couple hours to stoke the fire in a Franklin stove, our only source of heat. But that's a story for another time.

With Thanksgiving upon us, I want to tell you how Walt, the long-time coach and athletic director at International Falls High School who died in 1979, taught me to cook turkey during our holiday stays on the island. This is a tribute to him and all the grill masters and pitmasters who pass along the tradition.

I married one of Walt's granddaughters. In her family, getting your first Weber kettle was a rite of passage to adulthood. And watching Walt was how we learned to use the machine.

The ritual would begin in the morning as he started the charcoal. Bill and Walt Jr., Walt's sons, say that early on their father used kerosene to light the charcoal. It smelled worse but was cheaper than starter fluid. By the time -- 1971 -- I joined the family, though, he had switched.

By  9 a.m. or so, the coals, a few stacked on one side of the kettle providing indirect heat, would be white and Walt would place the whole bird on the grill. Then he put the cover on the kettle and adjusted the air vents.

When everything was right, that usually meant it was time for a beer and to start the first bocce ball tournament of the day.

Every hour, precisely, Walt would add a few briquets.

Last Thanksgiving, at my brother-in-law's place in Kansas, we cooked turkeys, ham and beef loin on three different machines -- an offset stick burner, a Kamado and a standard Weber. Actually four, if you count the turkey in the kitchen oven as well. My brother-in-law also learned, in part, from Walt.

Over the the years, my basic turkey technique hasn't changed much. It's still Walt's.

Oh, now I sometimes brine the bird ahead of time in a salt and sugar bath. And I add wood chunks (hickory and/or apple and/or pecan) to the charcoal for smoke flavor, and some herbs to the butter baste. But those are small tinkerings.

The main thing I learned from Walt is the importance of constant vigilance, regularly adjusting the vents to keep the temperature right, adding charcoal and wood when necessary, checking the bird every so often. Its color and smell will help tell you how it's doing.

 Often accompanying all that vigilance is a beer. That's an important part of the ritual, too.

Even in Atlanta, they love Texas barbecue and follow the Posse

       Snow's BBQ pit boss Tootsie Tomanetz tends the pits as the sun rises over Lexington. (Photo ©Chris Wilkins)

A recent item posted on Eat It, Atlanta involves a tour of Texas barbecue joints inspired by the Posse, according to its author, who goes by the moniker The Legend.

A group of four barbecue fans -- two hailing from Atlanta, one from Boston and one from Texas -- visited nine joints in 48 hours and scored the brisket and sausage at each,  just as we did on our recent Best of Texas tour.

The group's verdict: Snow's BBQ in Lexington had the best brisket (that was the Posse's verdict, too), La Barbecue in Austin the best sausage and Snow's scored best overall.

Pecan Lodge in Dallas finished fourth in brisket and fifth in sausage.

It was a very tough field. Other places visited included Franklin Barbecue in Austin, Louie Mueller Barbecue in Taylor, Black's Barbecue in Lockhart, Kruez Market in Lockhart, City Market in Luling and Smitty's Market in Lockhart.

Memo to The Legend: Let us know the next time you're in town. We always love talking to people who know good barbecue.

A readers' guide to The Barbecue Chronicles, the journeys of the Texas BBQ Posse

Since November 2009, members of the Texas BBQ Posse have traveled nearly 5,000 miles searching for the best barbecue in the state. True sojourners of smoked meat, BBQ Snob and prolific blogger Daniel Vaughn once called us. Back at you, Daniel.

As we await publication in The Dallas Morning News of our recent Best of Texas Tour, here's an annotated readers' guide, with links, to the first 11 chapters of our barbecue chronicles.