Saturday, February 19, 2011

Old School BBQ & Grill: East Austin ‘Que joint delivers solid brisket, fantastic burger

Here's a report on Old School BBQ & Grill from the Jacobson branch of the Texas BBQ Posse, including Gary, Sherry, Libby and Gunnar Jacobson and Mike Gagne. They visited Old School last Sunday and share this report:

Among the newfangled trailer eats of Austin, fine smoked meats can be found at Old School BBQ & Grill, operating out of an old yellow school bus at East 6th and Waller streets.

The crew is often mobile. Check online on their website, Twitter feed or Facebook page to see their particular whereabouts.

Trey Cook, the pit master this day, chatted us up during lunch and confided that he was trying a new rub on the brisket, a peppercorn-based spice mix. After 24 hours of smoking at 180 degrees and another 12 hours at about 225 degrees, the corns were soft and the concoction just spicy enough to satisfy the range of taste buds in our small group. The brisket was moist, a little fatty but delicious.

According to Trey, one of the secrets to their brisket relies upon the special cuts, which are from only the left side of the cow.  This is because he says cows always sleep on their right sides, forcing them to use the muscles on the right-side of their bodies more. The left side, so the reasoning goes, is less muscled and, thus, more marbelized.

No one in our group had ever heard that before. So we had to check it out. Mike Gagne found that -- according to a Texas A&M study -- cows sleep on both sides and might even have a propensity to favor their left side. Aggies can’t be wrong, can they?

We also contacted Posse member Marshall Cooper, who knows just about everything involving barbecue. Yes, Marshall, responded by email, he had heard of the left-side theory. But, he said, the only people he knew offering it were butchers who did their own slaughtering.

Trey didn’t reveal his meat sources, but he did say he uses a local supplier.

We got to Old School about 15 minutes before it opened at noon on a Sunday. The bus shared a vacant lot with other food trailers, four blocks east of I-35. It is a fine place. A picnic table, chairs, a firepit and quirky sculptures are scattered over the grounds. The ever-growing skyline of Austin looms nearby.

We wanted to try the ribs, but Trey said he hadn’t made any that day and he recommended ordering a day ahead if you want some. They go fast, he said.

Even if you hanker for barbecue, don’t forget to try Old School’s burger! It just might be the best you’ve ever had. The burger is some fine Angus beef. Standing out more than anything was the carmelized onions and tomato. It doesn’t need mustard, mayo or ketchup.

This is a BBQ place where the sides cannot be forgotten. The potato salad and french fries are solid. Sadly, the super cheesey mac and cheese was not available on this Sunday.

Next door, Flying J’s, the waffle-and-chicken trailer did not disappoint either. The thick deep-fried crust on the chicken provides the flavor, combined with maple syrup and hot sauce. “It’s a delicious mess,” Sherry said after taking a bite. In fact, it’s a meal that jazz greats like Dizzy Gilespie are said to have eaten in Harlem. In the late night/early morning after a show, all that was available to eat was the chicken of the previous day and that morning’s waffles.





Photos by Gunnar Jacobson

Saturday, February 12, 2011

Marshall Cooper takes his new Jambo J-3 pit for a test ride


Texas BBQ Posse pitmaster Marshall Cooper finally got his new Jambo J-3 pit on Thursday, after being delayed by the ice storms. In typical Marshall fashion, there was a fire going almost as soon as the J-3 was parked in the driveway.

Marshall has been smoking meats for over 25 years and keeps intricate notes and meat maps from all his cooks. Here are some notes from the initial cook:

Friday, 2/11 at 11:12 pm
"I've staggered about 58 pounds of meat onto the pit since 1:30 pm today.
Fire management is easier than you would believe. The desired pit temp just locks in as good as kitchen oven. Geer's elaborate R&D program worked ........"


Sat, Feb 12 at 6:29 am
"! Just now tasted the first #120 brisket. Within 1-2 hours I am about to pull an 18 pound #119 that went unwrapped. Also about to pull a 20 pound whole pork shoulder. 
1st brisket (from Tom Thumb)
Smoke: lacked, way too light for me. Roast beefy. I think the fire burns so clean, the exceptional draw produces much less smoke. I realized this smoke difference mid way through cooking but had already foil wrapped this brisket. 
Tender: extremely, butter
Juicy: extremely for a Tom Thumb Store brisket, Ranchers Choice. Pulled off the pit a little late, meat was 205 which made the flat end dryer. After brisket rested for 3 hours plenty of juices visible when sliced. 
Flavor: ok. Needed more rub. 
Texture: ok for foil wrapped. 
Smoke ring: Yes
Fat Rendered: Yes. 
Bark condition: nice rich dark brown, not black and bitter. 
Overall Opinion: roast beefy due to not enough smoke. Juicy except in flat end. Damned good first brisket off brand new less seasoned pit
Solution: burn an extra log while unwrapped and choke fire down to adjust smoke."



Photo by Chris Wilkins

Thursday, February 3, 2011

See the photos: First trip (of many) to Lockhart Smokehouse

After waiting several months for Lockhart Smokehouse's opening day, the Posse made its way across the ice-packed Houston Street viaduct today for lunch in the OC. We were not disappointed.

Posse pitmaster Marshall Cooper, his son Mark & I sampled the meat spread shown above. We ordered brisket, shoulder clod, a pork chop and Kreuz jalapeno sausage. Jim Rossman and Gary Barber joined in on the meatfest as well. There was nothing left but grease-soaked butcher paper when we were done.

Wednesday, February 2, 2011

Super Bowl XLV Media Party - See photos of the Texas BBQ celebration

Even Super Storm 2011 couldn't stop the BBQ greatness of the Super Bowl XLV Media Party last night at the House of Blues.

Eight of the planned ten pitmasters from across Texas made it through the ice and snow to the HOB. The teams were Snow's BBQ of Lexington, Louie Mueller Barbecue of Taylor, Franklin Barbecue of Austin, Black's BBQ of Lockhart, Blue Ribbon BBQ (Mikeska family) of Austin, Mills County BBQ Company of Goldwaite, Stanley's Famous Pit BBQ of Tyler, Schoepf's Old Time Pit BBQ of Belton and Earl Campbell's Sausage. Only the teams from Cooper's Old Time BBQ and Meyer's Elgin Smokehouse were unable to make it through the ice storm.

Thanks to Drew Thornley and Man Up Texas BBQ for joining with the Super Bowl XLV Host Committee to put together a great lineup featuring the best of Texas cue.

Here are some party photos shot by Posse member Gary Barber of the historic gathering. The weather might have sucked but the BBQ was amazing!








Photos by Gary Barber

Saturday, January 29, 2011

Papa Joe's Backyard BBQ: It's a family affair

The first of Oak Cliff's three new BBQ joints, Papa Joe's Backyard BBQ, opened today with an 11am ribbon cutting. Friends and family were on hand to see Lee and Beverly Alvarez's two-year labor of love come to life. Lockhart Smokehouse, located in the Bishop Arts district, will open next Wednesday. Luckie's Smokehouse BBQ, located at 1300 W. Davis across from the Kessler Theater, is also opening very soon.

Papa Joe's is located in Oak Cliff's Elmwood neighborhood, near Edgefield and Illinois Aves. and also close to the Alvarez's home. The restaurant is located in a former daycare center that was bought and completely redone by Beverly's dad over the past two years. The result is a bright and vibrant new restaurant they hope becomes a community favorite in the neighborhood.

The "Joe" in Papa Joe's is named after Lee's dad, Joe Alvarez, who was the head chef at the Dallas Petroleum Club for 30 years. Many old family recipes are at play here. Both Lee and Beverly are running the restaurant with help from Lee's bother and their twin 9-year-old sons Ryan and Richard. They also have a younger daughter Anora, who was running around between the dining room and outside playground.

The joint also features a large "backyard" with plenty of outdoor chairs, tables and fire pits, making it a great place to spend the evening. Think marshmallows roasting and ice cold beverages. The backyard also has a large outdoor playground for the kids, making it DFW's top kid-friendly BBQ joint by far.

On to the meats, Papa Joe's is serving brisket, chicken, ribs and sausage, along with numerous sides and deserts. He is using pecan wood and a smaller smoker until is big pit arrives. We tried the brisket and chicken. The meat was well cooked and seasoned, tender but a little light on the smoke. Lee says this will be taken care of when he starts using his big smoker. The three homemade sauces were excellent: original, sweet and brisket sauce versions.

Posse member Bryan Gooding also went to Joe's on their first day and writes on his Facebook page, "Papa Joe's grand opening today. Was under the radar for the last month. Commercial smoker using pecan wood. Brisket had small smoke ring and very little flavor (roast beefy). Ribs were a bit better. Star was the jalapeno cheese sausage + mac & cheese and their beans were good. Let's watch this place. Nice neighborhood kind of place and totally kid friendly."

Bryan adds, "I applaud their use of pecan (what oak is to the hill country, pecan is to Oak Cliff) and will possibly help reinforce the style of "Oak Cliff" BBQ. Their use of rub only lets "the meat speak for itself" as they spared the use of BBQ sauce on their meats. It's been a long road back from the days of Austin's BBQ and this helps signal an end to the drought of smoked meats in the OC. We can thank Smoke for that also."

Lee says, "We just wanted to open a place where our kids could play and we didn't have to worry about them.......and a place to enjoy a cold beer too!" Mission accomplished Lee and Beverly, good luck to Papa Joe's Backyard BBQ.

Click here to see Papa Joe's Facebook page. Their website with dining room and catering menus will be live next week: www.papajoesbackyardbbq.com.

Papa Joe's Backyard BBQ, 1233 Newport Ave, Dallas, 214-941-4092. Open Thurs 11am-7pm, Fri-Sat 11am-10pm, Sun 11:30am -7pm.







Photos by Chris Wilkins

Thursday, January 27, 2011

10 Texas BBQ giants gather in Dallas to cook for Super Bowl XLV Media Party

It's like a dream BBQ tour. Imagine hitting 10 of the best barbecue joints in Texas.....all in one night.

Posse lead writer Gary Jacobson got the scoop this morning about a gathering in Dallas next week of legendary pitmasters. Snow's BBQ owner Kerry Bexley called to give Gary a heads up on the story.

Pitmasters from 10 top TexasBBQ joints will gather in the parking lot of the House of Blues next Tuesday to cook for the 2011 NFL Super Bowl XLV Media Party, which is held that evening at the HOB. You have to be a Super Bowl credentialed member of the media to attend and the NFL has credentialed over 5,500 journalists to cover the big game at Cowboys Stadium. What a great way to show the national and international media what Texas is all about.

Kerry and Snow's will be cooking with the team from Louie Mueller Barbecue on Mueller's portable smoker, which they will drive up from Taylor. In addition to Snow's and Louie Mueller, Kerry says they will be joined by Aaron Franklin of Franklin Barbecue, Black's BBQ from Lockhart, Blue Ribbon BBQ (Mikeska family) from Austin, Cooper's Old Time BBQ from Fort Worth, Meyer's Elgin Smokehouse, Mills County BBQ Company in Goldwaite, Stanley's Famous Pit BBQ in Tyler, Schoepf's Old Time Pit BBQ in Belton and Earl Campbell's Sausage.

Several Texas BBQ Posse members will be covering the Super Bowl for The Dallas Morning News. We'll be sharing stories and photos from the event and any other BBQ-related news from the Super Bowl.

Photos by Chris Wilkins